Safiery USA Dual Hob Induction Cooktop — 1400W + 1400W, 110V, RV-Safe

Built-in dual induction for 110V markets — 1400W + 1400W to 2000W max, RV-safe, no pulsing.

A built-in dual-hob induction cooktop engineered for 110V electrical systems — the US and North American counterpart to Safiery's 240V induction range, for RV, camper, and off-grid builds running on 110V shore power or a 110V inverter/battery setup. Two hobs deliver 1400W each, with total draw capped at 2000W, so the cooktop is sized to sit under the ceiling of a 2000W-class inverter rather than a household circuit — domestic induction units typically draw 2400W or more, which is enough to trip a smaller inverter mid-cook. Like the rest of Safiery's induction line — including the 240V Dual Hob (INC280018001, 1800W+1300W) and the Single Hob (INC180018006) — this is a no-pulsing design: continuous power delivery instead of the rapid on/off cycling generic induction cooktops use to fake lower heat settings. No pulsing means no audible clicking, no patchwork of hot and cold spots on the base of the pan, less electromagnetic interference near nearby electronics, and genuine low-heat control for simmering rather than an on/off cycle disguised as one — the reason smooth-power induction is the standard fit across Safiery's marine, RV, and off-grid range. The 110V rating is the real differentiator from the AU units, with a different per-hob power split (1400W+1400W here vs. 1800W+1300W on the AU dual hob) to suit. As with any induction cooktop, cookware needs to be ferromagnetic — cast iron, enamel-coated iron, carbon steel, or magnetic stainless steel; if a magnet sticks firmly to the base, the pan will work.

About this product

The 110V counterpart to Safiery's induction range: two 1400W hobs capped at 2000W combined, with the same continuous smooth power rather than on/off pulsing.

Built for North American RV, camper and off-grid installs running on 110V shore power or a 110V inverter and battery. The per-hob split differs from the 240V dual (1400W + 1400W here against 1800W + 1500W there) to suit the supply, but the ceiling is the same 2000W - sized to sit under a 2000W-class inverter rather than assume a household circuit.

The rest is unchanged: continuous power delivery at the level you set, so no clicking, no hot and cold patches across the base of the pan, and a low setting that genuinely simmers.

Sized to the inverter you already have

Most domestic induction cooktops draw 2400W or more, which is enough to trip a 2000W inverter halfway through dinner. That is why generic induction so often fails in a boat or a van and gets blamed on induction itself. These are built to a 2000W ceiling instead, so they run on the system already under your floor rather than demanding a bigger one.

Real low heat, not full power flickering on and off

Many low-cost induction hobs have one real output: full. They fake a lower setting by switching that output on and off, which is why they click, and why a sauce catches on one side of the pan and stays cold on the other. These deliver continuous power at whatever level you set, so a simmer is genuinely a simmer.

94% of it ends up in the pan

Induction heats the pan directly instead of heating a surface and hoping the pan picks it up. Rated at 94% cooking efficiency against roughly 70% for conventional electric and about 40% for LPG, which is the difference between spending your battery on dinner and spending it on warming the galley. It boils half a litre in about two minutes at 1800W.

Works with

  • 2000W inverter — What the whole range is sized around
  • Lithium house bank — Runs off the battery, no gas bottle
  • 110V shore power or inverter — Standard connection
  • Aluminium, copper or glass cookware — Not supported

Specification

Power

Configuration
Built-in dual hob
Hob power
1400W + 1400W
Combined power limit
2000W max
Input voltage
110V (US / North American market)

Heat delivery

Power delivery
Continuous - no pulsing, no on/off cycling
Cooking efficiency
~94% (vs ~70% conventional electric, ~40% LPG)
Cookware
Ferromagnetic only

Questions

Will it trip my inverter?

Not if the inverter is 2000W or better. The combined draw is capped at 2000W, which is the reason this range exists - most domestic induction cooktops ask for 2400W or more and trip a 2000W inverter under load.

What cookware do I need?

Anything ferromagnetic: cast iron, enamel-coated iron, carbon steel, or magnetic stainless steel. If a fridge magnet sticks firmly to the base of the pan, it will work. Aluminium, copper and glass will not.

What does "no pulsing" actually mean?

Many low-cost induction cooktops have one real power level - full - and imitate lower settings by switching it on and off. That is what causes the clicking and the uneven heat across the base of the pan. These deliver continuous power at the level you select instead.

SKU
INC110018001
Category
Induction & Hot Water
Price
$635.00 AUD inc. GST
Availability
In stock

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